There are many kinds of waxes involved in the making of lotions, hands creams, facial creams, UV cream and etc. This article will be explaining the different used of the different waxes, their characteristics of it as well and the level of competency for crafters.
1. Emulsifying Wax NF (made with Cetostearyl Alcohol & Polysorbate 60)
乳化蜡NF（由鲸蜡硬脂醇和聚山梨酯60制成）
beginner level
A popular choice for beginner lotion/cream makers is Emulsifying Wax NF. The "NF" means that it's been made to a standard formula, so in theory, any brand of emulsifying wax with the "NF" should be interchangeable.
Emulsifying Wax NF is incredibly user-friendly, making it an excellent choice for new lotion makers. It's not fussy about pH, is compatible with wide range of ingredients, and doesn't require an immersion blender (easy melting under heat)
对于初学者乳液/面霜制造商来说，最受欢迎的选择是乳化蜡NF。 “ NF”表示它是按照标准配方制成的，因此从理论上讲，任何带有“ NF”的乳化蜡品牌都可以互换。 乳化蜡NF非常易于使用，是新乳液制造商的绝佳选择。它对pH值不挑剔，可与多种成分兼容，并且不需要浸入式搅拌器（加热时易于融化）
2. ECOMulse: (A.k.a NatraMulse/ NatureMulse/Ritamulse SCG)
intermediate level
This wax comforms to Ecocert standards of ecological and organic cosmetics, making it a great choice for organic or natural lotions and creams. As a bonus, in addition to its emulsifying properties, it conditions skin in a non-greasy manner.
However, there are some keys features to be aware of, that makes it less foolproof to use than Emulsifying Wax NF.
Lotions/creams made with ECOMulse need to stay within the pH range of 5 to 7.5 to remain stable, Add any acidic ingredients (such as aloe) after emulsification and monitor pH. This won't come into play in this workshop or with my recipes, but ECOmulse is anionic (has a negative charge), which means that it might not react well with cationic (positively charged) ingredients.
To use, add ECOmulse to the oils, heat both oil and water phases to 70°C to 80°C, pour the water phase into the oils phase, mix to emulsify with a stick blender, and continue mixing during cool down.
该蜡符合Ecocert生态和有机化妆品标准，使其成为有机或天然乳液和面霜的理想选择。另外，它除了具有乳化特性外，还可以不油腻地调理皮肤。 但是，要注意一些关键功能，因此它比乳化蜡NF更加不易使用。 用ECOMulse制成的乳液/面霜需要保持在5至7.5的pH范围内才能保持稳定。乳化后添加任何酸性成分（例如芦荟）并监控pH值。这不会在本研讨会或我的食谱中起作用，但ECOmulse是阴离子性的（带负电荷），这意味着它可能无法与阳离子性（带正电荷）成分发生良好反应。 使用时，向油中添加ECOmulse，将油相和水相加热至70°C至80°C，将水相倒入油相，用棒式搅拌器混合乳化，然后在冷却期间继续混合。
3. Olivem 1000 (a.k.a Bio-Mulsion Wax) 橄榄乳化蜡
beginner and intermediate level
Olivem 1000 is hypoallergenic, and conforms to Ecocert standards of ecological and organic cosmetics. It's based primarily on olive oil, but isn't palm free.
It's less fussy about pH than ECOmulse, staying stable over a pH range of 3 to 12. It can be used by itself, but when used at low amounts is often combined with 0.2% xanthan gum for stabilization.
A combination of 5% Olivem1000 + 1% beeswax is a lovely combination for creams.
To use, add Olivem 1000 to the oil phase, heat both oil and water phases to 70°C to 80°C, slowly pour the oils phase into the water phase, mix with a stick blender to the emulsion, and continue occassionally mixing until cool enough for essential oils, preservative, etc.
Olivem 1000(橄榄乳化蜡）具有低变应原性，并符合Ecocert生态和有机化妆品标准。它主要基于橄榄油，但并非不含棕榈。 与ECOmulse相比，它对pH的要求不那么苛刻，可以在3到12的pH范围内保持稳定。它可以单独使用，但是当少量使用时，通常与0.2％的黄原胶混合使用以稳定。 5％Olivem1000 + 1％蜂蜡的组合非常适合乳霜。 使用时，将Olivem 1000加入油相中，将油相和水相加热至70°C至80°C，将油相缓慢倒入水相，用棒式搅拌器混合至乳液中，并继续偶尔搅拌直至足够凉爽，可用于精油，防腐剂等。
4. Beeswax （蜂蜡）
(professional level)
Unlike Emulsifying Wax NF, Olivem 1000, and ECOMulse, Beeswax isn't technically considered a trues emulsifier by itself, though it
has been used for centuries to make effective cold creams.
Lotions and creams made with beeswax require a completely different ratio of oils and liquids than recipes made with emulsifying waxes. For this reason, you can't swap beeswax for Emulsifying Wax, or vice versa. They each require recipes that suit their unique properties.
Because of the higher amount of oils and butters needed when working with beeswax, you'll notice the resulting lotions and creams feel richer and sometimes oilier and heavier on your skin. If you find the list in Lesson 1 and choose oils that are extra light and absorb into your skin more quickly.
While it's a controversial ingredient for some, adding borax (sodium borate) to beeswax is the one way to transform it into a true emulsifier. If you have trouble with your beewax lotions and creams separating (and they eventually will over time), you may want to try dissolving 1/4 tsp borax in the water phase and mixing as usual.